Postie
Joined: Mar 06, 2004
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 Posted:
Mar 08, 2004 - 10:30 |
 
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I play wood elves cause i like them the must, they just appeal to me:-)
But i don't really know how to set my guys up at a kickoff/recieving moment. I tried some varations and none are all to succesfull. Now i can't except from other players to give tehir deepest secrets up just like that  but some advice/help/tips would be really nice  |
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poi66
Joined: Aug 16, 2003
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Mar 08, 2004 - 10:44 |
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It depends on the opponents team. You cannot use the same setup on agile teams as you use on rather bashy teams.
Try to play other wood elves and learn from them. |
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Grod
Joined: Sep 30, 2003
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Mar 08, 2004 - 10:46 |
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Ok recei ving is easy. Keep a thrower and a receiver deep. Use the thrower to pick the ball up and pass to deep receiver. On the front line, bunch all your players near the weakest spot in your opponents defence. Blitz and block a hole to the tryline. Then use your first receiver to hand-off to a second receiver waiting on the scrummage line. Preferably give to someone with blodge. March as many players up the field as you can and set up some rudimentary cage. On your opponents turn, even if he blitzes your ball carrier, you can normally retrieve the ball for a 2 turn touchdown.
The other classic play is to pick the ball up with a thrower, and march your thrower backward out of blitzing range. Then one by one, move most of the rest of your team into the other half of the field. Your opponent cant cover all of them. On your next turn, blitz a receiver free, and move your thrower as close as possible and pray. Essential skill for this move is safe throw. NOS also helps on receivers.
In defence, only put minimum 3 players on frontline. Normally together to minimise blocks on them. Keep everyone else two squares back. Since they are fast, you can always cover a line penetration, and you can also capitalise easily if your opponent makes a mistake or you get blitz.
This should be plenty to get you started. |
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EcLiPsE
Joined: Aug 02, 2003
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Mar 08, 2004 - 11:06 |
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on defense vs bashing you should always try to avoid him 'caging' your players so you get +x dodges. most bashy coaches will try run into the back of your defense line, if they can, and cut your dodge ways to maximize their blocks on you (and burn your rr).
offense is a question of personal style and the opposing team's defence. watch some replays of 'top' rated WE teams in 'difficult' games. you can learn a lot of these.
greetz... E. |
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Colin
Joined: Aug 02, 2003
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Mar 08, 2004 - 13:07 |
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On defence, keep your players spread out so he can't trap multiple players in a few TZs, making for extra dodges when you get to move. I like to put two fast players close to the halfway line in each widezone (but 2 squares back to avoid quick snap, or one of each pair only one back if I'm feeling lucky/desperate), as it's amazing how many teams do not cover themselves for a blitz kick-off. Both pairs of wide players can also be used to harass the ball retriever and his helpers, if any; it's also amazing how often people leave their guy at the back alone within blitzing or at least GFI range. This is where Blodge/Sidestep/Shadowing players (Catchers/Wardancers, usually) can cause nightmares. Don't let him blitz your Wardancers on the turn he begins his drive if he has any Tacklers on the team (esp with Claw or MB). Side Step is wonderful for prolonging the life of Wardancers.
On offence, pour as many players through as possible, but keep some in the middle to make it hard to put players between your thrower and catcher, and to act as an extra receiver for the following technique; I prefer to move/pass/run/handoff/run/score or move/handoff/run/pass/run/score in the second turn of the 2TTD (two turn touchdown), with as many players as possible covering for fumbles and dropped catches (double one WILL happen, and can cost you a game), and a RR to spare - do NOT make unneccesary blocks first in this turn, only the ones needed to make a path or clear a player. Wood Elves should never (unless v very strong coaches) have to throw further than a Short Pass with this technique. Anything longer, and you need 3+ on the pass, 1/9th chance of failure, unless your thrower has two of: ag5+, Accurate, Strong Arm. With a pass and handoff, with skill or team RR available, the odds of a handling error are 1-(35/36)^3, slightly less than a 1/12th chance of an error. And I haven't factored in the odds of a failed GFI, so try to reduce those to a minimum, especially when done with the player with the ball. I also prefer to avoid dodging with the ball carrier, instead dodging to blitz free that player - if he blows the dodge, the other team still has to knock down your ball carrier, instead of you having done it for him.
Finally, you can both spectate live matches and watch replays of past matches. Find a successful Wood Elf team (i.e. with a big +TD difference) with a highly-rated coach, and watch how they set up and play. |
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BunnyPuncher
Joined: Aug 02, 2003
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Mar 08, 2004 - 13:43 |
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#1 thing is.. dont be overconfident after you score in two turns.. odds are he'll take all six turns to score and smack the crap outta ya while doing it... you have to figure out a way to get that ball.. cause he'll probably score in 8 turns in the second half...
Stripball Wardancers peeve me off. |
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Gertwise
Joined: Aug 02, 2003
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Mar 08, 2004 - 13:57 |
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Do like most wood elf teams do and don't play the bashy teams and you won't have to worry about them taking 6 turns to score. |
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MixX
Joined: Aug 02, 2003
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Mar 08, 2004 - 14:00 |
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Gertwise, people will figure that out by themselves, no need to urge 'em on  |
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thmbscrws
Joined: Aug 02, 2003
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Mar 08, 2004 - 14:02 |
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Also don't play any teams with tackle, avoid big guys, and most importantly never ever play a coach with a coach rating over 150.  |
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ourden
Joined: Sep 20, 2003
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Mar 08, 2004 - 14:36 |
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And I never play against Dwarfs with my Orcs, they are tooo scary.
Oh thats right I don't have any orcs |
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Even though she is vain and flighty
'Cause she wears a gauzy nighty
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DoubleSkulls
Joined: Oct 05, 2003
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Mar 08, 2004 - 14:37 |
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| thmbscrws wrote: | | Also don't play any teams with tackle, avoid big guys, and most importantly never ever play a coach with a coach rating over 150. |
 Maybe he should try to play coaches with a rating over 150. They might try to win the game, rather than just beating his team into pulp. |
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Ian 'Double Skulls' Williams
Eucalyptus Bowl |
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Doowa
Joined: Nov 25, 2003
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| Posted:
Mar 08, 2004 - 14:39 |
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Watching plenty of replays is one of the best ways to get ideas. The best one is ofcourse to just play a lot of games
Offense is pretty well covered above so I'll only give a few of my ideas on defense.
- As said, don't give your opponent the possibility to block your players. On a bad day AV7 is sooo little.
- Try and get to the ball as quickly as possible. Use your high move to send a player or 2 behind your opponents line, putting additionel pressure on the ball and the possible places to secure it. If he drops the ball these guys might even be able to score
- Any block/blitz on the ball carrier is a good one. Even a -2d block can turn out good... So on line up there is no reason to keep players way back (unless you're playing other WE or skavens ect.)
- If your opponent manages to build up his cage surround it with your players on all sides 1 square away from him, allowing him on 1 block on you - his blitz move. Keep a few players behind this 'wall' so he can't just run through where the blitz is placed. At kick off spread your players out so he can't form the initial cage on your half of the field. Delay from the beginnning. Use your own blitz to knock a hole in the cage and if he goes down bring in some tz's on the call carrier. If it's a push or skull/POW I would back out and secure the wall. Don't forget your wardancers might be able to leap in and get a 1d blitz on the ball.
IMO, there is no reason to give dodge to all of your players. Block is essential as well cause you dodge on 2+ in most cases anyway and block wil give you a stronger offense.
Wardancers with skills like tackle and strip ball are also importent to keep a WE team succesfull IMO. |
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I play the game of life and have never once lost... |
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Perox
Joined: Aug 02, 2003
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Apr 05, 2004 - 16:21 |
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| BunnyPuncher wrote: | #1 thing is.. dont be overconfident after you score in two turns.. odds are he'll take all six turns to score and smack the crap outta ya while doing it... you have to figure out a way to get that ball.. cause he'll probably score in 8 turns in the second half...
Stripball Wardancers peeve me off. |
Like this? 
Stalling to bash peeves me off.  |
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BadMrMojo
Joined: Aug 02, 2003
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Apr 05, 2004 - 17:00 |
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Colin and Doowa both brought up some good points. Offense should be easy enough. Defense is all about forcing mistakes and capitalizing on them.
Get the tree. Love the tree. Accept the tree for what he is - a target. Throw him on the line (hopefully with block and guard) and let your opponent beat on him all day long. A smart opponent will ignore him (but he makes a nice little hole, then). If you're lucky, you'll find at least a few coaches that consistently put 5 or 6 men around a tree to beat on it for a while. Let them. That leaves you plenty of room to score.
Take the most annoying defensive skills you can find. Kick on the first Line elf to get a skill. Block for most everyone (dodge where you can... important early on but at high TR, most everyone has tackle), sidestep for most everyone, strip ball on all wardancers, at least a few pass blockers, a few tacklers, shadowing where you can get it, leap on any +ag players, a dirty player or two if that's your game (and you usually don't want to start a fouling war with AV 7, so I say screw that... get a good skill), guard on doubles for linos and dauntless for catchers.
Always look for a way to get the ball free. Doowa mentioned it but it's worth repeating. With all that AG and movement, you should find at least a few possible routes to get to a ballcarrier. Just remember to plan on that failing! Get everyone in position except for your blitzer and possible assist and someone to grab the (hopefully) loose ball and chuck it down to the catcher who's waiting in TD range.
Yes, I did say that catcher on Defense. People whine about those MA 10 Catchers who never play on defense so they can't get greased. I whine when I see them sitting in the reserves because it's a wasted opportunity. I love having a fast player or three when defending. Constant threat of converting a loose ball to a TD and an incredibly mobile assist when blitzing. Always keep one in scoring range. At any point, you could pop the ball free and that catcher gets an easy score.
When kicking off, generally kick deep (3 spaces from both the side and the endzone, assuming you have your kicker) and try to get 2 - 3 guys in his backfield to harrass whomever retrieves the ball. |
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Condensed Guide for Newbies |
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m0nty
Joined: Aug 02, 2003
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Apr 05, 2004 - 17:55 |
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As the coach of the current Faction 1 champions, the wood elf team Bhaggy Greens, I feel qualified to comment.
In short, I have two defensive setups. One is when I have less than 11 healthy players. This consists of the two lowest TR players plus my tree on the line of scrimmage (LOS), with all the rest waiting back about 6 spaces behind. Not somethign you want to have to do, but with woodies it's necessary.
The other strategy is for when I have 11 players to set up. This starts with three players on the LOS in the centre, hopefully including my tree in the middle plus my two lowest SPP players as meat on the edge. The other 8 players are lined up in four groups of two, two spaces back from the LOS, with two pairs one square from the sideline, and the other two pairs a space away from them inside the central box. If you are lucky enough to have a few Guarding linemen, put them in the sideline pair on the inside. If you have any Side Stepping players, place them on the outside of the sideline pair, closest to the sideline. Pass Blockers go in the central pairs, hopefully at least one on either side. Remember to put your Kick player (what do you mean you don't have one? They're essential!) in amongst the central pairs so his skill gets used. It's also wise to put your Thrower, if you're fielding him, in the central pairs as well. If you have more than two Guarders, put them as the outside player in the central pair. So, to summarise, you have three types of defenders: 3 Meat, 4 Wings and 4 Centres. Catchers would normally either fill the inside wing role or a passblocking outside centre. Wardancers are usually decent as the outside wing, but if any of your non-catchers has +ST, this is very handy in that position, preferably with blodge as well.
With this setup, you have to think carefully about how your opponent will tackle the problem on offence (pun intended). If your opponent is keen on a 2-turn TD, he will choose one of two options: go through the middle with multiple receivers for a pass in the second turn, or try to punch their way through on one of the sidelines to form a cage behind the line.
If they choose the passing play, the usual tactic is to move a guarder up to the centres and then blitz the inside Centre to bust open a hole in the middle through which 4 or 5 opponents can move without neding to dodge, usually setting up a widely spaced zone of multiple potential receivers or caging around a chosen catcher. Wood elves are quick enough to make it very hard for your opponent to pull of this play, which is where those passblockers become useful again, especially if you groom one or two as taggers with Tackle and Shadowing. Since you can rely on at least 7 players being upright on your first defensive turn, dodging away to apply pressure to the receivers in the middle of the field is relatively easy, although the more spread out the receivers are, the more you'll have to work. Usual tactic is to send 3 or 4 elves to rush the thrower, with a passblocker or two included, spaced 3 squares apart so the thrower has to dodge past them. The other woodies rush back to surround the cage, although it is usually foolish to actually move adjacent to it, since this gives the opponent lots of blocking opportunities on their next turn. What you want is for the opponent to have to make a choice: make the thrower dodge and/or throw with TZs and blitz the backfield defence, or blitz a midfielder to free up the thrower, and hope your catcher can dodge to the end zone? Either choice includes much risk.
If they choose the sideline rush, much will depend on how the blitz on the outside winger goes. If it fails to bring the winger down, the offence stalls, and they can only hope to bash you for the rest of the turn while they frantically swarm to protect the ball. If the blitz succeeds but the player stays on the field either prone or stunned, use your side step to place him next to the sideline, so that there is no room to get past without making a dodge. Having Tackle on your inside wing is great if this happens. If your outside wing gets taken off the field, you'll just have to watch as the opponents stream through the gap to set up their offensive cage.
Assuming the ball gets to your opponent's receiver without your passblockers interfering, here is where your wardancer comes in handy. He's a champion cagebreaker. He works best with a lineman with Leap and Guard. if you roll +AG on a lino early, groom him to help wardancers break cages. If you manage to get the ball to squirt out, you're in business, which means Strip Ball is a vital skill for wardancers. If all goes well the ball will bounce free of the cage, which means you have a very easy scoring opportunity by making a pass to one of the 4 elves on the other side of the field. If your blitz fails, make sure you have enough open elves in the backfield to make your opponent think twice about stalling and bashing.
There, now you know all my secrets! |
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