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Poll
How to paint and what to buy?
The "normal" way (like my half-painted skaven team)
34%
 34%  [ 15 ]
Speed paint! Wham bam and done!
37%
 37%  [ 16 ]
Something else, like....
4%
 4%  [ 2 ]
Paint a pie with icing instead.
23%
 23%  [ 10 ]
Total Votes : 43


Badoek



Joined: May 17, 2009

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 07:52 Reply with quote Back to top

JackassRampant wrote:

If your primer is black, your job is to pick out the highlights. For me, the order of operations in the black method is: black primer, a heavy highlight (in white if I'm working fast, or a lighter version of the basecoat if I'm taking my time), basecoat, highlight, detail, dry highlight, then hit it with finish.


Woah woah easy! I don't get all the steps, could you explain/clarify?

Black primer: ok.
Heavy white highlight: Everything that sticks out on the mini I assume?
Basecoat: skin, team and armour colour. Do I paint over any highlighted areas?
Highlight: With a whitened version of the basecoat?
Detail: ok
Dry highlight: Uh I thought all highlighting was done dry. So I get this one. The other highlighting is just normal painting? Like the basecoat but only the "higher" parts of the mini?
Finish: Sealing?
Sp00keh



Joined: Dec 06, 2011

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 09:14 Reply with quote Back to top

if you only want 1x teams worth of minis painted, i'd pay someone to do it rather than spend all the money on loads of paints and brushes and all the other stuff that you're only going to use 0.001% of each paintpot

it wouldn't be hugely more expensive, and it'd be 100 times better result

however

if you want to paint anything else in the future, it'd be better to get your own set and start learning

maybe buy a box of plastic warhammer fantasy rank and file to practice on, you get 16 basic troops in a box for £20..
you could probably convert them to linemen for a team if they're in the right style. zombies and orcs spring to mind as probably suitable
harvestmouse



Joined: May 13, 2007

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 09:41 Reply with quote Back to top

Badoek wrote:
JackassRampant wrote:

If your primer is black, your job is to pick out the highlights. For me, the order of operations in the black method is: black primer, a heavy highlight (in white if I'm working fast, or a lighter version of the basecoat if I'm taking my time), basecoat, highlight, detail, dry highlight, then hit it with finish.


Woah woah easy! I don't get all the steps, could you explain/clarify?

Black primer: ok.
Heavy white highlight: Everything that sticks out on the mini I assume?
Basecoat: skin, team and armour colour. Do I paint over any highlighted areas?
Highlight: With a whitened version of the basecoat?
Detail: ok
Dry highlight: Uh I thought all highlighting was done dry. So I get this one. The other highlighting is just normal painting? Like the basecoat but only the "higher" parts of the mini?
Finish: Sealing?


Well Garion's quick method is a simple version of this. Primed in black, added 'high light' by dry brushing white. He has now picked out the highlights. Then washes over (which doesn't fully cover the highlights).

A longer method would be to paint over the black, but leaving the very deep recesses black. Also borders between colours. I don't think you need to go this deeply into it though. This is veering away from your original premise.

To be honest, I don't think a lot of the advice is helping anymore. There are lot's of methods you can use, just depends on the amount of time, effort and money you want to put in.

Citadel do lots of simple guides on painting simple minis. I'm sure you can find lots of simple guides online. Just pick one, and see it through. Without any knowledge, you won't really have much idea which one is best for you.

a. You haven't tried any.
b. You probably won't get the results the picture's show for a while.
c. You won't have much idea which will take longer, or give the better results for you.

A sealer is a kind of varnish that you put on top to protect your paint work. Garion's method particularly would wear through quickly. To be honest though, as a first job, I doubt you'll want or need to protect it that much, as you're going for bog standard.

Sealer is also very expensive. I'm also not sure which type would suite Garion's method. Model sealer is very good stuff though, comes in gloss -middle-mat finishes. Gloss is harder wearing but obviously adds an unrealistic shine to the minis, mat can make it a bit dull. How I painted though, the mat varnish used to bring out the detail.

I used Barniz, which was expensive but the best I'd seen.
JackassRampant



Joined: Feb 26, 2011

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 12:09 Reply with quote Back to top

You seem to have it down. The initial white highlight is mostly for bright color hold and for a painting guide for your eye, but it will get you started on a sense of depth on the basecoated figure.

Yes, all highlighting is dry, but there's dry and there's dry...

Clearcoat is a very personal matter, a number of options exist and I'm probably not the expert you need. I just hit them with a really light dusting of Krylon finish, but it takes a light hand and certainly isn't perfect in terms of hold; I touch up chips on my Orcs (the TT team I use) every couple years. Others can advise you better, I'd guess.

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harvestmouse



Joined: May 13, 2007

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 12:18 Reply with quote Back to top

JackassRampant wrote:

Yes, all highlighting is dry, but there's dry and there's dry...


Not always. There are other methods (for example) Of course airbrushing, or trying to achieve a similar finish isn't drybrushing.

Also methods of highlighting on flat surfaces (armoured pads for example), is to apply your highlights before your wash is fully dry and dragging it through the wash to give a gradual highlight.

All of this though, is way beyond what the OP needs or wants.
Garion



Joined: Aug 19, 2009

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 12:21 Reply with quote Back to top

I highlight by juicing now, so my highlights are the complete opposite of dry, they are the most wet of wet wettity wet hightlights. Juicing is awesome!

harvestmouse wrote:
All of this though, is way beyond what the OP needs or wants.


yes, also this ^

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Scaramanga



Joined: May 01, 2012

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 12:35 Reply with quote Back to top

[quote="harvestmouse"][quote="Badoek"]
JackassRampant wrote:


To be honest, I don't think a lot of the advice is helping anymore. There are lot's of methods you can use, just depends on the amount of time, effort and money you want to put in.

Citadel do lots of simple guides on painting simple minis. I'm sure you can find lots of simple guides online. Just pick one, and see it through. Without any knowledge, you won't really have much idea which one is best for you.

a. You haven't tried any.
b. You probably won't get the results the picture's show for a while.
c. You won't have much idea which will take longer, or give the better results for you.



+1

Even with a guide your first mini will not look like the picture.

you need to make some try-errors to find your way in painting.

a black primer(spray or paint), 7-8 colors than you like(gw, reaper, vallejo, privateer, coat d'arms or anything else they are all good), 2-3 brushs and let's go, take a seat and paint.
JackassRampant



Joined: Feb 26, 2011

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 12:41 Reply with quote Back to top

k, fine, all highlighting I use in these two methods is dry. My point was a moderate-to-heavy drybrush before detail can really leave you looking good with a minimum of work, though you need a light drybrush after the fact, so your detail gets shaded too and your raised areas get picked out. The big upside to the black method is that really everything is a highlight: sure there's a basecoat, but if you think about it, that too is just a really heavy-handed highlight. It's all about using the texture of the provided miniature.

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Mr_Foulscumm



Joined: Mar 05, 2005

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 12:41 Reply with quote Back to top

PainState wrote:
My painting guide gets the job done.


Very Happy

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Mr_Foulscumm



Joined: Mar 05, 2005

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 12:47 Reply with quote Back to top

1. Prime the models.
2. Apply paints until satisfied.
3. Add basing material.

There you go. Enjoy. Smile

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Scaramanga



Joined: May 01, 2012

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 13:46 Reply with quote Back to top

a lot of good advices and guide here : http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.ca/2009/10/tutorial-overview.html#basics
Badoek



Joined: May 17, 2009

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 15:02 Reply with quote Back to top

Well, the art shop wasn't of any use. It was about the same price as the citadel stuff (although larger pots). I think the brand name is Universal.

I'll see if I can find a primer today and probably just order some Coat d'Arms or Vallejo paint.

To clarify: I've got both the Orc and Human team from the board game (3rd edition?) itself to paint. Quite simple miniatures I think, especially compared to my skaven team.
The skaven team consists of converted Nightrunners (I think) and Headsplitter as the Rat Ogre. That headsplitter looks literally as if painting it will split my head. Perhaps I'll have someone else paint that one. I don't mind ruining the normal miniatures but Headsplitter looks amazing (compared to the others). The skaven team is actually almost playable (very VERY basic). There's a lot of primer still showing but only in areas that could actually be black: black leather armour, boots, capes. I'll take a picture of them later.

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JackassRampant



Joined: Feb 26, 2011

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 17:25 Reply with quote Back to top

Those plastic 3rd ed models have many flat surfaces, which makes them quick and easy to paint but puts a lot of strain on your primer: the Human thighs and Orc arms in particular I've found pose a flaking risk, as well as the constant hazards like extremities and noses. Do go to the game store, shell out the extra bit for Citadel primer, and make extra sure to shake it up really, really good.

My buddy's 3rd-ed plastic Human team is absolutely gorgeous: he fills in pewters or custom models for studly players, letting rooks and guys with one normal skill languish in plastic (I took this idea for my pact, with Kerrunch! Marauders and custom mutants: I'll put up photos once I figure out how to take a good one, ever, lol). It's neat to look at what a great painter does with boring figures: somehow they always take on a new character.

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JackassRampant



Joined: Feb 26, 2011

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 17:45 Reply with quote Back to top

Fur is REALLY EASY, both in terms of modeling/converting and painting: short fur is ever-so-slightly trickier than long fur, but consistent texturing is simple and fun, and a great way to impress people who don't know painting. In fact, I'd say the two easiest things to paint are metal and fur (okay fine, in that order), and then everything else has some potential to go wrong somehow. Headsplitter has a fair bit of detail, but that's just time, and you shouldn't be thinking about his detail until you've got his fur anyway.

Note: fur means a lot of highlighting. Skaven + black method = easy, quick, fun, and very hard on your brushes. Get an extra 0 flat, you won't be sorry.

You might use the opportunity to buy more than one brand of paint, different colors in different brands: if you're like me, you won't just settle on one, but will use one brand for one kind of thing and another for another. Like I like Citadel greens and flesh tones for my earthy mixes 'cause they gray out "too much" when you blend them, and I do a lot of grungy orcs and stuff. For blues and purples and more browns, I mostly buy for price, and keep one decent tube of cobalt in case I need purity for some reason (got a team modeled on the California Golden Bears, that's pretty much the only use it gets). But if I need a bright color, it's gotta be a brand I really trust, 'cause nothing's worse than pale and runny, and you don't want bright tones that always gray when you mix them.

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Badoek



Joined: May 17, 2009

Post   Posted: Sep 07, 2013 - 23:14 Reply with quote Back to top

Shopping update: Going cheap is taking too long, I've ordered Army Painter Black Primer and The Army Painter Wargames Hobby Starter Paint Set.
I've also secured a cardboard box to spray in. Expecting to start on Wednesday or so. I noticed there's still huge amounts of mold lines so I can get started right away in removing those.

So (perhaps unfortunately) I'm not going to use the speed painting guide but instead I'll keep going down the road I went with the skaven. Pictures are awaiting approval btw.

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