| Poll |
| How to paint and what to buy? |
| The "normal" way (like my half-painted skaven team) |
|
34% |
[ 15 ] |
| Speed paint! Wham bam and done! |
|
37% |
[ 16 ] |
| Something else, like.... |
|
4% |
[ 2 ] |
| Paint a pie with icing instead. |
|
23% |
[ 10 ] |
|
| Total Votes : 43 |
|
PainState
Joined: Apr 04, 2007
|
 Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 00:17 |
 
|
| xnoelx wrote: | OK, firstly: DO NOT dip your minis in paint. You'll end up with shapeless blobs. And if you actually want nice looking figures, rather than just to get them painted to a minimum standard, there is a lot of good advice out there. The forums at WAMP and CoolMiniOrNot are both good, and there is a lot of other stuff available, including lots of youtube videos.
But yeah, the best advice is that if you have a local gaming group or hobby shop, there will probably be someone who can get you started. |
This is your answer if you sober up and want to do it right and proper. |
_________________
Comish of the:  |
|
harvestmouse
Joined: May 13, 2007
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 00:21 |
|
Yeah but........Garion's guide is pretty simple too, and the results are massively different. |
|
|
PainState
Joined: Apr 04, 2007
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 00:22 |
|
Ok..I will relent. Instead of the DIP option. You brush the entire mini the base coat of green/blue and then move on to step 2.
Warning though.
This will require a purchase of a case of beer instead of the required 17 beers. |
_________________
Comish of the: |
|
lemf
Joined: Jul 17, 2005
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 01:22 |
|
Pain State
I wonder if you or I started on your painting guide philosophy first?
Either way its a great way to paint.
I probably have too few beers that's why my paints run into each other  |
|
|
B_SIDE
Joined: Apr 24, 2008
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 01:44 |
|
That speed painting plan isn't all that different from putting a normal paint job on.
Cut flash from models with hobby knife
Scrub with toothbrush and water (may use soap)
(I usually glue my BB models to the base at this point)
Prime white (spray primer)
Base coat each color
Dark wash each color
Drybrush one layer of highlights
Add levels of detail to suit your preference (ie numbers, eyeballs, etc)
Paint whole base green then flock top of base using white glue
Spray with protective coat (ie Purity Seal or similar)
So if all you have is one brush, here's the plan you should probably follow.
BUY/BEG/STEAL:
A clean, well lit area
Roll of paper towels
Your sister's toothbrush
An exacto knife
White craft glue from a kindergarten (Elmer's or equivalent)
Your dad's coffee cup for cleaning brushes
Super glue to hold it all together
ONE BRUSH for painting base coats and washes
ONE BAD BRUSH for drybrushing, since it ruins brushes
ONE TERRIBLE BRUSH for basing, since glue also ruins brushes
ONE GOOD BRUSH for numbers and eyeballs
Spray Primer
Spray Sealer
PAINT: One base, one highlight, and one wash for each main part on your model. For a blood bowl team, that could be 6-9 paints plus black, white, silver, brown for the ball, and green for the grass.
FLOCK FOR THE BASE
Don't skip this. It's what separates a blood bowl team from a very small fantasy army.
On Paint: I buy acrylic colors from the local art supply store. They're cheaper than GW and probably as good/better.
On Brushes: Buy a couple of brushes while you're getting that paint.
On Flock: I buy flock from the local RC car/model train shop. It's the same product as GW, for 1/4 the price.
Run the whole thing like an assembly line, and you should have it done in a day. It's just important to remember that each step is important, since the layers of detail and finished product are built on top of whatever work you did underneath them. Make sure your models are clean and carefully primed above all things.
You may have noticed at this point that you've spent your lunch money for the week on all this. But when it's time to do another team, you'll have most of what you need. |
|
|
Scaramanga
Joined: May 01, 2012
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 03:18 |
|
I paint 15mm miniatures for skirmish and fantasy mass battle.
Like B_side, i take craft acrylic( ceramcoat or americana) dilued with an acrylic thinner. It's cheap and very good.
For brushs, i have a 4/0, 2/0, 1/0 for details and a 2 for the basecoat(not expensive at an art and craft store).
Method i use is similar to the garion guide. Basecoat, drybrush and ink. Fast, nice and easy. |
|
|
B_SIDE
Joined: Apr 24, 2008
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 03:29 |
|
My method of painting space marines requires an airbrush, a can of clear floor finish, black ink, and a bottle of bourbon. But one of the great things about BB is that no one team will bog you down in painting land for too long. |
|
|
harvestmouse
Joined: May 13, 2007
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 05:59 |
|
| Scaramanga wrote: | I paint 15mm miniatures for skirmish and fantasy mass battle.
|
What figures do you use? What rules do you play?
Using white glue on bases is a bit old hat. It's a bit bulky. Generally now, you paint the base to add a layer of sand/flock/static grass. |
|
|
Badoek
Joined: May 17, 2009
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 09:11 |
|
Thanks a bunch guys!
@Painstate: I'd like to go out drinking with you to witness that kind of alcohol abuse (I'm expecting some selective quoting from this one, but that's fine). But I'll take the spirit of your advice because I've got this feeling this miniature painting thing might suck me way too far into painting land compared to what I originally was trying to achieve(not too many paints, not too much details, not too perfect). I'll go with the red-eyes on the humans too btw, it only makes sense.
@B-SIDE: Looking good! I'll get robbing and stealing.
| Quote: | | PAINT: One base, one highlight, and one wash for each main part on your model. For a blood bowl team, that could be 6-9 paints plus black, white, silver, brown for the ball, and green for the grass. |
Ok some help with the paints then?
To finish my skaven I'll have to get some blue and I remember using the Bestial Brown.
Orcs: Green(1) for skin, a team colour(2), a secondary team colour(3)?
Humans: Skin colour paint(4)?, a team colour(5), a secondary team colour(6)?
Use the green(1) for the base.
Use the brown for boots and maybe as team colour?
Use the blue for skaven and as another team's colour(7)
Silver for armour( ?
White for highlights/mixing I assume(9)?
Black for some other stuff(10)?
So that's about 10 pots of paint.
The primer, white is the one? My skaven were done with black. Isn't white harder to paint on? |
_________________
 |
|
Dalfort
Joined: Jun 23, 2008
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 09:57 |
|
The evil GW do have starter sets of paints:
This set contains:
1 pot of Leadbelcher (12ml)
1 pot of Macragge Blue (12ml)
1 pot of Waaagh! Flesh (12ml)
1 pot of Averland Sunset (12ml)
1 pot of Bugman's Glow (12ml)
1 pot of Mephiston Red (12ml)
1 pot of Mournfang Brown (12ml)
1 pot of Imperial Primer (12ml)
1 pot of White Scar (12ml)
1 Starter Brush
1 pair of Plastic Cutters
1 bottle of PVA Glue (20ml)
1 bottle of Plastic Glue (20ml)
1 Tub of Static Grass (10 grams)
1 Tub of Sand (45 grams)
currently on the Netherlands site for E47 (I have no Euro sysmbol on my laptop...)
The "system" sets ie Warhammer, 40k or LotR: contain 8 paints some figures and a starter brush. They are E31 and E35 for LotR.
I really enjoy painting, I find it extremely relaxing. When I first started I used to be anxious I was using the "right" colours, the (good) GW shop manager took a compliments slip and wrote on it "its your hobby, YOU are right!" signed it and told me to look at it when I started to doubt myself 
The difference between using black and white as undercoats is the brightness/depth of the finished top coat. The same top coat can look totally different when painted over either undercoat.
(This is far too long a post for me giving "advice" on painting :p )
Take care Dalfort |
|
|
B_SIDE
Joined: Apr 24, 2008
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 10:13 |
|
Some people swear by black primer. I prefer white for many things, and black for others. I've also primed models in other colors. You can get good results with black primer, but only if you don't plan on having any large areas of yellow or white. If your skaven are primed black, go with it.
Bestial brown is a good color, and you can basically skip the WASH phase if you prime in black and use a relatively dry brush to put your base coat on the fur. The steps become PRIME BLACK, DRYBRUSH BROWN, LIGHT DRYBRUSH LIGHT BROWN.
For armour, you may want to leave it black, then drybrush with silver (or gold). It will look... well used.
As far as secondary colors go, you can usually get away with just one shade. For example, blue shoulder pads with yellow trim look awesome, and you don't need 2 yellows to do it.
When you look for artists acrylics, instead of the really fancy ones in metal tubes, use the almost-as-fancy ones that come in plastic squeeze bottles.
Human skin tones, shades, and highlights can be made by adding small amounts of brown and red to white until you're happy with the color. A moisture extending medium can be used to prevent the paint from drying while you mix it, but it's not really necessary.
For Orcs, you'll want:
GREEN FLESH
DARK GREEN WASH
LIGHT GREEN HIGHLIGHT
TEAM COLOR
TEAM COLOR WASH
TEAM COLOR HIGHLIGHT
TRIM COLOR
WHITE
BLACK
SILVER
and probably
The brown you used on your skaven, for leather and fur.
The brown highlight color from your skaven.
A good red, for splattering like blood!
Don't know what I'm leaving out, but let me know how it goes. |
|
|
Garion
Joined: Aug 19, 2009
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 10:14 |
|
its all about the black. Black on all menz |
_________________
 |
|
xnoelx
Joined: Jun 05, 2012
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 10:35 |
|
White undercoat is good if you're going for top level painting. For quick results, black is much better; you can be a lot looser with your basecoat, leaving the black undercoat showing in the creases and crevices for easy shading.
Oh, and yes, mixing white into most colours will work for highlights, though if you stick with painting, you'll find that there are better alternatives: cream, pale browns or greys, etc. Adding white can give too much of a chalky, pastely effect.
But; never add white for highlighting red, you should add yellow instead. Unless you want it to look pink. |
_________________
 Nerf Ball 2014
Last edited by xnoelx on %b %05, %2013 - %10:%Sep; edited 2 times in total |
|
harvestmouse
Joined: May 13, 2007
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 10:40 |
|
If you did it the Garion way, you'd need to buy inks and paints. I'm not sure how well it'd work with watered down paint.
Ok, if you wanted to do this the cheapest way possible, what you would need (and I'm using the cote d'arms site for this.
They do paint sets for £17.50 http://www.blackhat.co.uk/online_shop/index.php?cPath=21_42&osCsid=bb88c4dda70ee1a193624572e2ad003a
The basic colours you would need are:
Black, white, red, blue, yellow & silver.
Browns, purples, beiges and greens you can make yourself by mixing. You can make metal by painting black and then drybrushing with silver.
You don't need to buy a separate primer. You can prime by watering down black or white and painting it on. However when you prime in this way, the paint job is softer and not so sharp.
You will need 2 brushes. 1 large for priming and drybrushing (this can be cheap, and will not last very long, as both priming and drybrushing is hard on the brush) and 1 good quality brush for painting.
Eyes you can do with a very thin felt tip pen. You can also use this for bordering. I used to use a Staedtler pigment liner 01 for this.
You will also need a craft or stanley knife to clean of the mould lines. Doing this it's recommended to be very careful and do not remove too much. Actually I disagree and it's very rare to make that mistake. Find the line, and scrape towards yourself (for me, it's like cleaning a chestnut, if you've done that).
For basis, split into 2 parts. Paint the sides first. I'm oldskool, so I use the old bloodbowl colour system.
Lineman-basic colour
Agility player-yellow
Pass player-white
Strength player-green
Blitzer-red
Then you need to do the top of the base. Fill in the holes next to the tabs with blue tack. Then paint the base brown, immediately dip the base into sand and then leave. Later shake off a little of the excess, but not rigourously. Then water down brown paint and put the brush onto the base. The sand will soak it up, do this a few times until you have the colour you wish. Now if you wish to add flock you may, or if you wish to add static grass (static grass may need some pva glue as well). You can now paint some detail on the base if you wish. |
|
|
Garion
Joined: Aug 19, 2009
|
| Posted:
Sep 05, 2013 - 10:50 |
|
the speed painting way just needs white paint. and a bunch of washes and that it. You can get normal paint and turn them into washes, using some special liquid stuff ( i forget the name) but that will just mean buying more stuff.
You could probably get away with just buying white, black, red, yellow, blue, brown and a silver. That should be enough in theory to paint anything. |
_________________
|
|
|
|
| |
Secret Stunty Cup IV
Search
